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We only offer Platinum or Basic treatments on the D3. The chassis is very complex and difficult to access, requires significant time to strip parts inhibiting access.
The Range Rover Sport RRS is unique in that removing the underbody trays, arch liners, and access in general consumes a significant amount of time. Parts need to be removed in order to grant access to the underbody. For that reason we offer the basic treatment where we inject behind these guards, without removing them, and the platinum where we remove them, complete all the work, but also sand blast clean the heatshields, trays, the underbody plastic trays. we also respray the trays.
There is also a 30>40% increase in product useage given the sheer area to cover on the underbody of a RRS vs most other applications such as large 4x4's
Platinum Underbody Rustproofing treatment
- Steam clean underbody.
- Heat and clean cavities with 155C steam.
- Remove extensive underbody trays and heatshields.
- Remove Inner arch liners.
- Remove sill plastics, and rear arch plastics (open doors to gain access).
- Remove mid / rear section of exhaust.
- Remove Fuel Tank.
- Remove spare tyre.
- Remove Auxiliary heater exhaust mounting.
- remove extensive amounts of fittings, bungs, and fixtures.
- Needle gun and sand the underbody.
- Mask Full bodywork.
- Mask Underbody, Electrical connections where possible are protected/ masked.
- Stripe Coat 2K Armour to Chassis.
- Apply 2K Armour to Cavities.
- Schutz Apply 2K Armour to underbody / suspension.
- Treat cavities with WAR (including front and rear door bottoms, and extensive underbody brace cavities and sills in Chassis Guard).
- Apply WAR to chassis/ axles.
- Sand blast, paint, and refurbish the thick metal underbody trays including tank guard (on occassion this may require replacement).
- Sand blast paint and refurbish the inner arch liners, and underbody plastics (over 10 pieces)- repaint in PIO Plastics in one..
- Sand blast the heat shields to improve their appearance.
- War Anti-seize on many fixtures, fittings and mating faces from parts removed.
What we do.
Our current process is to degrease the underbody with FXdegreaser. Following this we pressure steam clean @155C to remove all loose and friable paint/ rust, and contamination.
After this process is complete we also steam the internals of the chassis and any cavities to be treated. This process often takes three days to this point with temperatures up to 155C.
Once the vehicle is fully cleaned, we then remove parts. Parts we remove for example are:-
- Fuel Tank
- inner arches
- tank cradle
- Heat shields (extensive amount of them!)
- Plastic underbody trays (extensive amount of them!)
- Steering/ sump guards
- Side step supports if fitted
- Arch liners / applicable extra fittings
- Various other fixtures and fittings such as rubber bungs to allow cavity access to sills and more
Mating faces are then cleaned and prepped further.
The next step is to inspect the chassis for welding repairs (charged additionally- although unlikely to be required on a D3 due to chassis sectional thickness) - descale the chassis where required. We then key the chassis and thin any existing coating for full inspection using sanders and other abrasive methods- (many coatings on chassis even from new appear ok and have underlying issues, so to simply paint over them is a false economy).
After the chassis or underbody has been prepared we then apply as per above.
Basic Underbody Rustproofing Treatment
Buzzweld U.P. Underbody preservation is a borosilicate glass re-enforced underbody clear lacquer with exceptional anti-corrosive properties.
We treat the entire underside of your vehicle, including chassis, axles, and underbody, in almost all cases including wheel arches, and some trim removal. U.P. has significant time and cost benefits over waxes and paints as it can be completed same day.
U.P. is specifically formulated to be applied to a wet surface that has had minimal preparation. U.P. will offer medium term protection above that of oils, and other waxes at low preparation levels.
- Clear- U.P. does not hide existing issues. You can spot problems as they occur and maintain accordingly.
- PREVENTS road salts and dirt sticking to the underside.
- LOW reactivity. U.P. is compatible with most existing paints and treatments making it ideal as a Patina Preserver, and a topup protection system.
- EXTREME creep from absorption, as well as capillary action.
- U.P. flows in between spot welds, and absorbs into corrosion forcing out the residual moisture and air, suffocating the ability for corrosion to continue.
- FAST CURE. U.P. can be touch dry in as little as 30 minutes.
- High temperature tolerance. Survives on the exhaust system up to but not including the downpipe.
- Forces out moisture from wiring looms, and electrical connectors.
- Presents an easy to clean surface.
- Vehicle underbody stays dryer for longer, and holds less water in adverse conditions.
- Dries properly, does not wash away, or attract dirt/ debris
- Makes maintenance work ALOT easier- cleaner, drier, less rust.
- EASY to weld, or prepare an area that has been treated.
We estimate the lifespan of U.P. conservatively to be between 12 and 36 months to first maintenance. This will vary based on the existing condition, and useage.
- removal of wheel arch liners (where possible. some vehicles such as the late Hilux, or VW T5 this is not possible in the timframe.
- Steam cleaning @155C of underbody
- Air jetting down to remove excess moisture
- Application of UP to underbody and cavities and arches.
we cannot access the top of the rear parts of the chassis near the middle, or the engine bay tops of chassis, without covering the electrics in paint, so we mask this area off.