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WAR Rustproofing Hydrophobic Undercoating

WAR Rustproofing Hydrophobic Undercoating



Product Description

W.A.R is a hybrid underbody wax/ underseal.

Developed as a middle ground between existing wet waxes like Waxoil, Dinitrol, and an underbody stonechip. The key points of W.A.R. are to simplify the application process, and increase longevity at the same time. W.A.R. has no requirement beyond basic prep for corrosion killers, or rust stabilisers. It is a LOW reactivity product with HIGH prep tolerance making it suitable for everything from touch up work, to full chassis treatments.

Including a VCI Vapour Corrosion Inhibitor, as well as a blend of other compounds W.A.R. has the ability to offer good levels of protection both internally in Cavities, and areas hard to reach. In addition W.A.R. cures to a tough, durable wax negating the need for a stonechip, and a wax for adequate protection. The finish is durable and will not attract dirt and debris like a wet wax, which inevitably requires more frequent maintenance, and forms a moisture sponge by accepting foreign dirt and debris.


Available in :-

Schultz Tins, Aerosols, Paint tins, and the appropriate thinner

Good for

  • Cavities and hard to reach Places
  • Underbody areas such as chassis, frame, and body panels

Suitable for

  • Axles,
  • suspension components
  • Application to firmly adherant rust, and keyed substrates such as aluminium, steel.

Poor for

  • Surfaces such as bumpers, rock sliders, and panel finishing


With Access

  1. Remove all Loose paint, wax, and underseal using a paint remover.
  2. Provide a key for maximum adhesion (use an abrasive to achieve this)
  3. If any grease, or contamination is present remove with a suitable product such as panel wipe or Fxdegreaser
  4. Clean down the surface using clean water and a Scotchbrite type scourer before drying.
  5. There is no requirement to remove all rust. You are looking ideally for a clean, dull surface, providing the coating something to adhere to.



  1. Shake the can for two full minutes with the agitating ball active.
  2. Apply in cross coats at 90 degree angles allowing the coating to cure between coats.
  3. Coating will take 1>3 hours to tack off, and 2>4 days to fully harden.
  4. following application if the entire aerosol is not used invert the can fully and depress the nozzle for 2>3 seconds to clear the actuator so it can be used again later. Consider an aerosol unblocker kit.
  5. Be sure to apply enough product "blacking" is the process of applying enough product to cover an item, but not enough to protect it. Failure typically occurs within 6 months, and will result in spot rust and sub surface corrosion occurring. You are aiming for Sufficient DFT (Dry Film Thickness).
  6. ALWAYS a minimum of two coats


  1. Stir and agitate the product thoroughly prior to use using an agitator.
  2. The product can be brushed, rollered or sprayed.


  1. Shake tin well. if tin has been sat for a while then use a mixing stick to ensure product is homogenous at the bottom of the tin as well.
  2. for FX10 & FX11 guns set pressure to 45>75psi at the gun. 
  3. Stripe coat / prime / prepare first
  4. Screw the nozzle in fully
  5. pull trigger fully
  6. Slowly unscrew the nozzle with trigger depressed until product is picked up sufficienty.
  7. when spraying you are looking for a sealed surface. any texture you want to have at the end should be done on the last coat. Ensure the surface is "sealed" you can check this by looking closely with a torch. if the surface is pock marked it is now sealed, those marks are defects, and you should apply slower. The result should look something like the beach when the tide has gone out, the surface flows.


  • Using a seam sealing, or turkshead brush, work the first coat in to the substrate/ metal you are looking to protect. This has the added benefit of greatly increasing the ability of the product to wet out benefiting the application in several ways.
  • After you have applied your first coat, allow it to cure for 2>3 hours typically. 
  • Apply your second coat using a large softer brush so as not to damage the first coat. The coating will tend to self-level and leave you a good finish.
  • Coating will take several days depending on conditions to fully harden


  • We recommend you use a long handled narrow roller for application. This gives you a higher pressure of application for the roller, assisting wetting out properties, and gives you better access and control.
  • Apply the first coat using reasonable force and a slow pass with the roller. Repeat the rollering process in the same area several times if existing corrosion is present to assist wetting out and adhesion later on. Do not spread the product out so far that you reduce the amount of coating, and thus reduce the protection available.
  • Allow coating to cure semi-hard for several hours depending on conditions, prior to adding a second or third coat.
  • Ensure coating is hard dry prior to use.


  • W.A.R. Can be sprayed by various means.
  • Buzzweld underbody gun. Extend the nozzle on the gun fully and set the pressure to a minimum of 90 psi. Pressure can be elevated up to 150psi depending on gun and container type. The product warmed, or thinned to affect coverage, film thickness, and conditions of use. In colder times, and closer to winter it may be necessary to use a small amount of thinner in the schutz tins to get a nice even flow through the nozzle.
  • Buzzweld 1.8MM Suction Feed gun. Thin W.A.R. using W.A.R. thinners up to 10%. Using a 400 Micron strainer load the gun with product, and set the pressure between 60- and 70 psi.
  • Spray as per normal spraying instructions, building up the product. We would suggest you allow the product to cure for several hours, and then apply a minimum of a second coat. Three would be ideal, but time or requirement may not permit this.


W.A.R. is unlikely to react with most products. Sensible guidlines to reduce the risk of product reactions are as follows.

  1. Ensure that any existing product to be top coated with W.A.R. if FULLY cured prior to top coating. There is a big difference between hard and fully cured. For example 2 pack acrylics can be hard same day, but take up to two weeks to fully harden so that they can be machine polished.
  2. If a reaction has occured, or is suspected, such as insufficient cure time available, then use a light first coat, with minimal thinner if spraying. If using an aerosol, then spray from a greater distance, and do not not flood, or build the product too fast. effectively "dust" the first coat. Subsequent coats can be applied with increasing build, and reduced risk of reaction
  3. If a coating reacts even after sufficient cure time, contact us for advise, or use a Barcoat Isolator as an intermediary coating.

WAR Concentrate Product Variations

War is available in three main formats. Aerosols, Schultz tinned and tinned concentrate.

  1. Aerosols are pre thinned, Heavy load units, that deliver ALOT of product in comparison to a standard aerosol. These use large bore nozzles, high pressure cans, and concentrate to fill them.
  2. Schultz Guns CANNOT spray war concentrate effectively. For this reason we lower the viscosity of WAR in a Schultz tin and pass the lower cost to you. With some guns, and situations it may be necessary to thin the product for correct spraying. in almost all cases, agitating, setting the nozzle, and pressure correctly work. you may need to add some multi-thinner or contact us for support if you have issues.
  3. WAR concentrate is as we make it. It is thick (VERY THICK) superb for brushing and rollering without sag, however to spray this you need to use our Multi-Thinner hence we supply that option at purchase. This is also the reason war concentrate is a higher price than war Schultz tinned.

WAR concentrate being applied with the PCL HD gun.



Notable attributes

  • VCI Vapour Corrosion Inhibitor. Self repairs, and protects areas not in direct contact with the coating using mono-molecular technology. This product uses positive air pressure, and relies on low air movement to be effective, and is superb for cavities such as in a chassis.
  • Tough, touch dry coating, with good resistance to abrasion, and a high build
  • Superb wetting out properties reinforced with VCI technology to allow 100% protection of a substrate drastically reducing future failures, and increasing product longevity
  • Ideal as a top coat for Rust Encapsulator, Chassis In One, and 2k Armour as a longer term sacrificial coating.


  • Always a minimum of two coats
  • Always allow the first coat a suitable cure period prior to second or third coat.
  • apply to dry, clean, non contaminated surface
  • Key the surface to a dull finish


  • Use fossil fuel heaters in or around coatings when applying or curing. They are not only a fire hazard, but they introduce massive amounts of moisture to the air.
  • Use Cellulose thinners of any kind as prep, or a thinning agent.
  • Use thinners to thin the product that are not W.A.R. specific thinners. W.A.R. is a specific hybrid coating, and using the incorrect thinners can cause premature failure, delamination, and porosity.
  • Apply to a wet substrate without specific advice from ourselves first.
  • Top coat existing coatings that are not fully cured
  • "Clean" the surface with thinners

COVERAGE (if primed)

Aerosol -minimum 2 coats

  • 1/2 can per wheel arch
  • 6 cans for a small chassis 
  • 8>10 cans for a large chassis
  • 4 cans for a small chassis cavity
  • 6 cans for a large chassis cavity

Tinned - minimum 2 coats

  • 8.5M2/1000ML
  • 2500ML for a chassis and axles up to 110 size if not pitted/ rough profile.
  • 8.5M2/1000ML if top coating a primer with a smooth substrate
  • 7.3m2/1000ML if top coating a rough substrate with no primer
  • 200ML per wheel arch (using two coats)

COVERAGE (if bare metal/ light rust)


Aerosol-  minimum 3 coats

  • 1 can per wheel arch
  • 10>14 cans for a small chassis
  • 14>20 cans for a large chassis

Tinned -minimum two coats

  • 6M2/1000ML
  • 5000ML for a chassis and axles up to 110 size if not pitted/ rough profile.
  • 4m2/1000ML if top coating a rough substrate with no primer 
  • 350ML per wheel arch (using two coats)

CURETIMES  (Typical)

Please be aware cure times can vary wildy. Air movement, film thickness, relative humidty, air flow and temperature all play a large part in the actual cure time of a product. Additionally temperatures below 10C can see the cure times extend exponentially if all conditions above contribute in a negative way.


  • 10C Touch Dry 90 minutes, Hard dry 6>8 hours, Hard dry 48>72 hours
  • 20C Touch Dry 60 minutes, Hard dry 4>6 hours, Hard dry 48 hours

Rustproofing a vehicle using WAR Underbody protection

WAR Underbody Superwax MSDS



Once applied, how soon afterwards should WAR be applied without the need to flat the RE down?
WAR has an overcoating window of around 48 hours once it is touch dry. Once the product becomes hard to the touch, you should consider scotching / preparing the surface for maximum adhesion, othewise chipping may be more likely.
If body filler is applied over RE should it be sanded to key it prior to filling? What grade paper?
Bodyfiller over RE is our recommendation. Filler is porous and when applied directly can act as a wick for corrosion. Ensure RE has been curing in good conditions for several days, ideally a week, and key with a scotch 320, or lower grit.
What grade should the RE be flatted with, if needs be, before applying WAR? Is a red scotch pad OK?
A red scotch is fine, or 320 or lower grit.
Can WAR be over painted with a 2 pack paint finish? If so how long after WAR has been applied?
WAR accepts almost any paint. We would recommend allowing war to hard cure for several days in good conditions, and then scotching prior. If you have a texture beware the profile of the paint will make it more difficult to scotch effectively. In which case we recommend nylon abrasive wheels.
Does WAR need a primer coat first, or can it be applied directly over a flatted/ground bare metal?
WAR is a primer and top coat. To benefit from rust stabilisation and no rust creep you can use RE, 2K Epoxy armour or CIO underneath as a base coat.
For a less textured finish (when using your Schutz gun), what is the desired thinning ratio for WAR? Is there a maximum limit on thinning ratio?
Ysing the FX11 schutz gun, i would recommend you start at 5% thinning, clean gun, well mixed, nozzle adjusted out. Provide an extra coat to make up for the additional atomisation. Thinning limit is around 30% but beware this drastically decreases the film build, and as such requires several additional coats to reach non thinned protection levels.
If thinned, how many coats of WAR should be applied for maximum protection?
This depends on your thinning ratio and application method. For 5% in a schutz gun, we recommnd one additional coat.